There are options in getting from Kathmandu to Lukla. The famous plane journey to the world’s most dangerous airport isn’t the only way but we just had to take the adventure of booking a flight into iconic Lukla airport, so we ( I ) faced my fear of heights and small planes and bought those one-way tickets. We’ve actually flown in and out of Lukla twice now, see the update at the end of the post, we had cancelled flights and a few issues.
It was a ride of a lifetime, a dream come true. It was also pretty scary.
In those first few days of our Nepal trip there were two planes lost, both out of Pokhara and my anxiety was running on overdrive. In this post we tell you;
- What that flight and landing is like.
- What to expect at Lukla airport and in Lukla.
- How to book your flights to Lukla.
- All of the options on getting between Lukla and Kathmandu, bus, jeep, plane and walk.
- How to see Lukla or Everest on a scenic flight from Kathmandu.
- What our kids thought of it and will they ever forgive us.
We took a little video of the planes taking off at Lukla ( below). We are back in Nepal very, very soon,( 2018) heading to EBC again and next year to K2 Base Camp. We now travel with good video gear, so there’s lots more to come. Sign up to follow the adventure here.
Options in Getting from Kathmandu to Lukla
- Bus to Jiri (1 905m, 9 hours) and Walk 6-7 days. Jiri is further along from Phaplu, same route plus 2-3 days.
- Bus to Phaplu (2,413m, 13 hours) and Walk 3-4 days. We’ve done this. Read about the bus ride here.
- Jeep, private or shared to Phaplu or Jiri. Quicker than the bus, less legroom,more expensive, more dangerous and Walk 3-4 days. We’ve researched and costed this from Phaplu, we picked the bus.
- Fly to Phaplu (2,413m) and Walk 3-4 days. We’ve seen the airport.
- Bus to Shivalaya and Walk 5-6 days. I know nothing about this route, sorry, I found it via Lonely Planet forums, I’m not even sure it’s correct.
- Helicopter to Sangboche (3,700m), just above Namche Bazar (3,500m), only for climbing expeditions really, the airport is below.
- Fly to Lukla (2,860m)
Option 7, fly to Lukla, is by far the easiest, quickest and possibly cheapest way to go when you take into account the extra money you’ll spend while trekking.
On our return from the Everest region, we walked from Lukla to Phaplu and took the 13 hour white-knuckle bus ride to Kathmandu. It’s by no means an easy option and it’s not all down-hill. It was an adventure with highs and lows both real and figurative that will go in another post.
The Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla Airport
Lukla’s Tenzing-Hillary airport at 2, 843m, is one of the most dangerous in the world. Some say it’s the most dangerous.
It’s also the most spectacular, I think.
This airport is where most trekkers and climbers start their journey to Everest Base Camp, other treks in the Everest National Park, ( there are plenty of trekking options up there) and to the summit itself.
A short uphill runway slows tiny planes enough to veer sharply right into an airplane car-park. All around are huge mountains. Once the pilot commits to landing there’s no space to manoeuvre so if anything goes wrong he has zero chance of pulling up. It’s land it, or crash it.
I have video of one tiny plane after another taking off and landing, the traffic volume is huge when the weather is clear. I’ll share the video when I can.
Our Lukla Flight Experience
We woke at 4.45am and were in the waiting taxi at 5.15am. We took with us only what we needed for trekking,most of our luggage stayed at our guest house in Kathmandu, free of charge.
We organised the early morning taxi through our guest house, it cost us 750 Rps, $7.50. Regular taxis are normally much cheaper than this in Kathmandu,( 3-500 Rps Aiport to Thamel ) but this was a large jeep.
Kathmandu’s internal airport opens at 6am, our flight, and most others, was scheduled for 7am.
Check in was easy, the queues were short, after all, most of the local planes only seat 14 passengers.
Our bags were weighed, surprisingly, we were not.
Our large backpack ( 17Kg) was taken away from us, checked in to be placed at the back of the plane, our smaller one, (7Kg), I kept.
After minimal security and a light pat-down we made our way through to the departure lounge for an expensive coffee and a Snickers. A lot of meals are replaced by Snickers when you’re trekking in Nepal.
There were seats, but as time wore on they all filled up and then some. There are a few shops and a washroom in the terminal.
Fog lay thick over the Kathmandu runway as we settled in to wait.
It seems that delays are common, even normal on these mountain flights. The planes can’t leave until the runways, both at Kathmandu and Lukla, are somewhat visible through the clouds.
The flight is only 30 minutes long from runway to runway and pilots guide the planes visually, there are mountains to dodge and that short airstrip to spot. Be grateful that they wait.
Once some degree of clarity was reached every pssenger in the departure lounge made their way to runway buses, one per flight. 14 people per plane.
We drove to the far end of the runway, picking our way through waiting aircraft before stopping.
“Is that our plane Mum?”
“Yes.”
“I hate you!”
When we reached our Sita airlines twin-engine our driver announced that Kathmandu airport was till closed, so we’d just wait a little longer.
An hour later it was all systems go, the green light was given and every waiting plane had to get out of there while the skies were still clear.
We rushed from the bus to take or seats, buckle up and listen to the safety announcement before taxiing to take our place in the departure queue.
Yes, you read that right, there was a safety announcement, a liveried stewardess comes as standard on these flights. After her chat she hands out sweets and cotton wool for ears before sitting at the back of the plane with the larger bags. I wouldn’t want her job for the world.
Then we were off, soaring and roaring up through the fog and clouds.
We grabbed seats on the left hand side, the side you want for the best mountain views, but with fog, cloud and dirty windows, there was little to see. On a clear day the views must be amazing, we lucked out.
We bumped up and down and blew from side to side. I spent most of my time praying or in the brace position. The children read their Kindles as if it was an every-day bus ride.
In the final minutes of the flight it seemed the pilot is about to fly into a brown, craggy mountain as eagles flew just below us. At the last moment he took a right turn and Lukla’s tiny airport came into view.
The landing was fast and bumpy, but safe.
Within moments we were all off the plane, had grabbed our bags and were ready to go.
It was a flight that will stay with me forever, something I’ve always dreamed of doing, but I don’t particularly want to do it again.
Tips on Flying to Lukla
- Don’t buy an open-ended return ticket. If weather is bad and flights are cancelled, you will be at the back of the queue for stand-by seats and could wait days. Get a fixed date or just buy a single. It’s easy to buy a return ticket from Lukla when you are ready.
- Sit on the left for best views.
- Take earplugs for the flight or use the cotton wool provided.
- Be prepared for a delay, take snacks.
- If possible buy the tickets yourself direct with the airline eg. Tara, Yeti, Sita. Kathmandu agents will over-charge you. Use Skyscanner to find deals.
- Children’s tickets ARE less expensive than adults. The agent charged us full-price. (Trekking permits are also free for under 10s, the agent robbed us on these too, they cost 10000 Rps each, $10, not $20)
- Lukla doesn’t have much going for it other than plane watching. Namche is a much nicer place to spend a few days if you’re ahead of schedule. You can walk down from Namche to Lukla in one day, but it’s a big day.
- Our tickets cost us $165 each, one way. Booking direct is cheaper.
Are You Looking For A Scenic Flight to See Lukla, the Himalayas or Everest Without Trekking? If so we can suggest this option, just click through here for details on a 1 hour scenic flight.. These flights can be booked before you even leave home, so much less of a headache for you and more time to enjoy Nepal. They have a lowest price guarantee and the reliability of a big, well respected company. If you have cash on tap, you can even take a helicopter tour to Everest Base Camp, see here. There are multiple tours of Kathmandu and Nepal also available, from a few hours, to multiple days. See what’s available here.
Cancelled Flights on the Kathmandu – Lukla Route
We’ve since returned and completed the Everest Base Camp trek with the kids. We had flight booked from Kathmandu to Lukla, but in October, peak season, there were a lot of cancelled planes and people were waiting days at the airport. Rather than paying thousands for a helicopter we hopped on a plane to Phaplu instead and walked to Lukla. This took us 4 days. Coming back from Everest our flight to Lukla wasn’t booked, we winged it and got on a plane within a day of arriving in Lukla. People with booked tickets waited longer than we did. Some had been waiting 4 days.
For you to bookmark to Pinterest, just hover and the red button will appear.
Thanks for following our story. There many more posts about travel in Nepal and trekking in the Everest region ( with children, although information applies equally to adults of all ages) on our website. Start with all of our Nepal Blog Posts in our archive. If you’re looking for trekking or open-ended travel insurance, try here.
A. K. Mondal says
Nice write up. It is full of information with a great story. Enjoyed it.
Abhilash Mithren says
So, If I have to plan a trip to Nepal- how many days will I have to allocate for a visit to Lukla?
Alyson Long for World Travel Family says
Depends how long you want to stay in Lukla and how you want to get to Lukla from Kathmandu.
Marthie says
We flew from kathmandu to lukla 6 may. Was very scary…..specially the landing. Flying back from lukla was a huge challenge. Bad weather was a huge problem. After waiting for 4 days for a plane from lukla to kathmandu, we could get a seat on a lukla plane to phaplu. From there, a 12 hour busride to kathmandu. Make sure you have extra days before flying out of lukla. Remember, the mountains have the last say
Alyson Long for World Travel Family says
Totally. It’s VERY common to be stuck up there because of bad weather. But flight plus bus ride….ugg. Worst of both worlds! It depends what ticket you have, one ticket puts you on the waiting list to come back down, but right now I can’t remember which way around it is. I think it’s better to buy a ticket one way rather than return but it’s been a while, can’t guarantee that information.
Marthie says
I must say…….the bus ride fron Phapku to Kathmandu was an extra bonus. We got to see the other side of the himalayas. Very scary…..but the views, spectacular.
We booked online before we went and in Namche Bazar, we booked our ticket back.
Alyson Long for World Travel Family says
Yep that bus ride is pretty phenomenal…but terrifying. We’re back again soon. I gave the kids the option of bus or plane…they said the plane was the least scary. I think I’m going to work on them and talk them into bus then walk from Jiri . I really hate flying.
Toddy says
Hi I am a 61 year old lady (travelling own)
Travelling to Kathmandu June
Is it possible you think to get first early flight to lukla
Staying day and fky back Kathmandu
Just for the experience??!
Alyson Long for World Travel Family says
The flights tend to all be in the morning because of weather , cloud, fog etc. Check flight times, otherwise yes, very possible, if rather expensive. Sightseeing flights also go, just take you up on a scenic flight.
Andy says
Sure, it is possible.
We just added one more person to our EBC team. She will fly from Kathmando to Lukla and back.
All flights are very early 🙂 6-8am
regards
Dhori Lipe says
Hi Alyson!
thank you for this helpful article. it is one of the best I have read so far.
My plan is to do the EBC trek in May.
I am arriving on a Friday to KTM and hope to get to Lukla on the next day.
what is the best way to buy the flight ticket to Lukla? would you buy it before (outside of Nepal)?
Thank you,
Dhori
Alyson Long for World Travel Family says
If you need to book for the next day I’d most certainly try to book them online before arrival ( try at least, use Skyscanner). There were no vacancies for several days when we went. However if you can’t buy tickets to Lukla online try the travel agencies in Kathmandu. But they do like to rip you off.
Dhori Lipe says
thank you for the quick response.
somehow is skyscanner not showing any flights. I do find flights with yeti.
is it safe to book on their page? which airline would you recommend?
hope not to bother you 🙂
thank you dhori
Alyson Long for World Travel Family says
All of those airlines seem pretty much the same, Yeti, Sita, etc. If Skyscanner isn’t showing any maybe they’ve sold out. I don’t know sorry, about the Yeti website, never used it. Maybe you could contact an agent in Kathmandu and ask about availability and reserving a flight?
Dhori Lipe says
Hi Alyson,
Last time I was in Nepal I did not take any flights. I usually would do it myself. ie. booking and so on. Contacting an agent from Europe it is a new experience for me. It looks like I would follow that path.
Thank you again for your support.
Dhori
Andy says
Hi Dhori,
My plan is pretty much the same… may 25->03/06/18 back to UK.
are you going on your own or with your team?
regards
Andy
Dhori Lipe says
Hi Andy,
My plan is to do the trek on my own.
The only issue I have is: Time.
The idea is to get to Lukla as soon as possible and have some
buffer time towards the end.
Regards,
Dhori
Andy says
Dhori,
Thank you for your reply.
It is exactly what i want to do. On my own, not with a group. Also, I was planning kathmandu – lukla by Yeti plain.
my issue is that i am the only one crazy enough to get this trip done however i just don’t want to do it on my own. 1 buddy i could talk to would be perfect. 🙂
if you would like to catch up and chat about it please give me a shout. if not, there is no problem at all. i do understand 🙂
All the best and good luck with your trip.
Andy
Alyson Long for World Travel Family says
Guys, you’ll bump into lots of people along the trail, you’ll find people to walk a day with and chat to. You won’t be alone, you’ll be as alone as you choose to be. Everyone is going the same way at a similar pace, you’ll keep bumping into the same people on the hike. Everyone wants to talk.
Andy says
Thanks Alyson,
That was just my only 1 concern i think 🙂 it is always better to have somebody to back you up in case of…
It works both ways.
It is a demanding trek and a challenge for everyone and i just wasn’t sure if i should do it on my own or not. 🙂 but i am crazy enough to give it a go.
Thanks again.
Dhori Lipe says
hi Andy,
i will be traveling on May 5-6 to KTM. Flying out May 26, probabely.
My concern was how to get to Lukla, as I am not sure how to book the KTM-Lukla flight.
Alison did give me a couple of hints which I still have not figured out.
Have you booked with yeti already?
Cheers,
Dhori
Andy says
Hi Dhori,
I will be going (if) on 25th (KTM) to Lukla with yeti.
It is £168 one way. Easy to do it online. 🙂
if we won’t meet, have a great fun! 🙂
Alyson Long for World Travel Family says
WE paid that, each. It is what it is.
Dyah Ayu Pamela says
Nice article! It’s really helped to traveler like me… I want to know, there’s an ATM in Lukla to withdraw money?
Alyson Long for World Travel Family says
Good question! I can’t remember but my husband will know, I’ll check with him later.
Alyson Long for World Travel Family says
He says yes, there’s one at Namche too BUT they are very very unreliable and they limit the amount of cash you can withdraw. He used the one in Namche twice. Even in Kathmandu ATMs are hard work, and expensive.
Himalayan Trekking says
Wow!, Its really scary flight from Kathmandu to Lukla. There is no choice for travelers who wish to make Everest Base Camp Trek, They will need to take this flight.
Alyson Long for World Travel Family says
No, there is choice, they can walk up. We walked down and caught the bus back to Kathmandu. It’s many extra days but walking up to Lukla is possible. We have friends who have done it, with kids.
Manthan Shah says
Hey, how cost efficent would that be?
Considering I have lots of time at my disposal. Would the hike from KTM to Lukla save considerable money, if yes how much?
Manthan
Alyson Long for World Travel Family says
I don’t think you’d save any money doing that Manthan. I know it cost us more to walk down than it would have done to fly down. Paying for lodges, food, guide and then the bus over several days ads up fast, but you’d need to cost it out for yourself. We had a Sherpa guide at $20 per day, that’s a lot of cash but we needed him with the kids.
Ben says
Hi Alyson!
Thanks for your article, very enlightening and entertaining! Two friends and I have about 3 days to spare in Nepal next Jan and were considering heading to Lukla to explore the area and see some nice scenery. We don’t have much time and aren’t experienced trekkers or anything – do you reckon it’d still be worth making a trip there to walk for 2 or 3 days?
alyson@worldtravelfamily says
Possibly Ben, it’s not cheap though. I think on the first day walking out of Lukla you’d need to buy an Everest park permit. Unless you went down hill of course. You probably wouldn’t get to see Everest from that walk, but you may from the plane if it’s a clear day and the windows are clean. Everest scenic flights are another option from Kathmandu, I guess they clean the windows! You don’t need to be an experienced trekker and you don’t need special gear, but you could have a quick look round, sure. You’ll see some dzows or dzo ( not sure of spelling), not yaks, yaks start higher up. It’s a pretty path up from Lukla and the first day is very easy,mostly down hill.
shinejakob says
All pics are fabulous. I think Your family enjoyed this adventures trip a lot without fear of flying. Thanks to share this awesome pics with us.
Timo says
Hello!
Thanks for the great information, I was wondering if you could help clarify something for me? I am considering taking the bus to Phaplu and was curious about the conditions. Is it a bus or a jeep? Do you remember the cost involved? How were road conditions? What time did it leave in the morning? Or if you have any tips or info that would be great. Thank you!
alyson@worldtravelfamily says
Timo, there is a bus and jeeps, your choice. The bus is cheaper, that’s what we took. I think I felt safer being in the larger vehicle and the risk of sickness may be less. We passed the jeeps, they travel in convoy, maybe around a dozen of them. The road is UNBELIEVABLE! It barely exists in places. I thought I’d posted about that bus journey already, maybe not. If I haven’t I will soon. We left before first light, I think it was around 12 hours. Everyone was vomiting around us, we were OK, I dosed the kids with travel sickness meds. But I wouldn’t recommend walking up, the trail is horrible, so many donkeys, so much erosion and mud. It’s an environmental disaster, very sad to see. I’d recommend flying. That said, the whole thing was a massive adventure and I’d do it all over again, love this part of the world. Have fun!
Nita says
Wow lady, such an adventure. Thanks for the tips. Beautiful pictures.
alyson@worldtravelfamily says
Thanks Nita. The best adventures are in the Himalayas.
Josie says
Wow! fantastic post Alyson. I can’t wait to see the video clips. Your family’s journey is inspirational. We walked for 12 days up to Jumla and flew down to, I can’t remember where, that was a fun ride too, but not so hairy by the sound of Lukla. Did you have to do much prep for the altitude here?
Thanks for the wonderful information in your posts.
alyson@worldtravelfamily says
No, not sure what you mean, there’s nothing you can do to prepare for altitude, it’s the luck of the draw. Chef got it bad once in Peru, terrible headaches for days, I’ve never had much problem. 2 of us had slight headaches when we arrived in Lukla but on the first dy you walk down a few hundred metres, so it went away. Then an acclimatisation day in Namche Bazar, and all was good.
Andy says
Alyson,
Your information are priceless. 🙂
So, i have all booked by now. 24/05/18-> 05/06/18 🙂
I was wondering if I should take purifying tablets with me or should i rely on the tea houses?
What do you think?
regards
Alyson Long for World Travel Family says
We used boiled water from the lodges mostly. Fill up with boiled water ( or black tea) every morning, good to go! We had 4 big Nalgene bottles and one camel back that one of the kids had, between 4 I haven’t personally used purifying tablets since India 1999, I really don’t see the need but if I had some I’d take them. If you can buy them easily at home, grab a few for emergencies, you never know, it’s not like they weigh much. There are plenty of streams up there that people drink from, maybe one of those purifying straws ( I’ve added info on tablets, life straw and purifying water bottles to this post now
https://worldtravelfamily.com/what-gear-do-you-really-need-for-nepal-and-trekking/ ) It will be very busy up there at the time you’re going Andy, it may surprise you.
Andy says
Alyson,
Thanks again for reply. I just did not know if they are necessary. 🙂
Can’t wait now. LoL
Regards
Talitha says
Freaks the s..t out of me, Alyson !
alyson@worldtravelfamily says
Lol!
deannelamb says
What was the essential gear for a trip like this? Did you bring most of it to Nepal or is it easier and/or more cost effective to buy it there?
It sounds like an amazing experience!
alyson@worldtravelfamily says
A post is coming soon on that subject Deanne!
Suzanne Fluhr says
Sounds a little like flying through the Andes and then up and over a ridge before a steep descent into Cuzco airport in Peru—except on a bigger plane on an airline you’ve heard of before. The bus ride back sounded scarier. I’m an atheist — except on airplanes.
alyson@worldtravelfamily says
Somewhat similar, yes. But worse. And better. We took the train up to Cuzco, the altitude must have hit you hard by plane.