Food in Laos and Luang Prabang

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Food and eating in Luang Prabang

Laos Food, What You Will Find

Food in Laos is incredibly diverse, you will be able to find a dish from just about any culinary tradition in the world being served to backpackers and tourists. If you’re looking for authentic Laos food, you may have a harder time because you’re more likely to find a fruit smoothie or shakshuka than a Laos dish.

This fantastic little country doesn’t have such a famously unique, strong, culinary tradition as its neighbours, Thailand, Vietnam and China. Borders change, people migrate, the edges of national dishes become blurred.

If you look and search out the traditional restaurants, you will find real Laotian dishes.

Because Laos is very much on the backpacker trail and has been for decades, you’ll find all the backpacker belly fillers, banana pancakes, roti, pizzas and baguettes.

The French history in this part of the world can still be seen in the abundance of  baguette stalls, absent in Thailand, but part of the food scene in Vietnam.

As better-off tourists are now arriving in large numbers too, thanks to the new airport in UNESCO heritage town, Luang Prabang, you will also find fancy cafes trying to cater to this trade.

We also, surprisingly maybe, found excellent Indian and Nepalese food in Laos, in both cases provided by expat families from those nations.

Traditional Laos Dishes

Laos is known for its sticky rice and Lao people consume more of it than any other country. It is normally steamed to woven baskets and is eaten with fingers. It’s delicious!

Larb (or larp) is probably the most famous Lao dish. It is a salad of raw or cooked meats with typical Asian herbs and spices. Ground rice gives it extra crunch ( pictured below).

Of course, you will also find larb in Thailand too.

The French influence can still be seen in Laos, baguette stalls are common on the streets and French restaurants can be found in Vientiane.

The Food Scene in Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang is a gorgeous little town, it always has been, but there have been changes since our last visit. Admittedly that last visit was over 15 years ago, so no surprises there!

I wasn’t keen for the first few days. That’s not like me at all. Mostly it was because we had some bad food experiences, we picked the wrong places and got sick.

That’s easy to do in a new town.

There were other things that turned me off Luang Prabang, being offered drugs, even with the children. Then there were the taxis and travel agents trying to charge us crazy money for tours and the touristy feel this town has developed since our last visit.

But change happens, it always does. We all need to let go of the past.

Now I’ve spent some time here, found my places to eat and drink, I love it, it’s wonderful, such a very, very lovely town if you just explore a bit more. See 9 reasons to visit Luang Prabang for more information on the amazing things to do here.

The temples and monasteries are stunning, the historic town itself is beautiful and there are some great trips out to waterfalls, villages, elephant attractions and craft centres, but food is really important part of travel to us.

You may have noticed I’m travelling with a chef.

If we’d left after those first few days I’d have gone away thinking food in Luang Prabang was a complete disaster. It’s not at all and I’m glad we stayed on, for over two weeks in the end.

This time we were travelling on a backpackers budget, so we were looking for good Asian food at affordable prices.

If you have more money to spend your experiences will be completely different and there are plenty of up-market eateries in town.

What We Fed the Children in Laos

Food in Laos. What did we feed the kids during our 6 weeks in Laos, with a closer look at food in Luang Prabang.

Laos is actually an incredibly easy country in which to find food for kids.

The images below show my boys happily tucking into fruit shakes, noodle soups and baguettes, but everything and anything they wanted was available.

For breakfast they enjoyed egg dishes ( the Israeli dish, shakshuka, was superb) and pancakes.

Quick meals came in the form of roti with cheese and onion fillings, or banana and chocolate if we were feeling decadent.

Because food in Laos is often a version of what’s often considered another country’s food, local versions of, for instance, Thai green curry, was often very mild and the kids enjoyed them.

I don’t know if this absence of heat (not spicy, few chillies) was a local Laos style or, more likely, a tourist version.

They also put away a lot of French bread pizzas, loaded with locally foraged wild mushrooms.

Fruit was abundant and there was the odd small shop selling biscuits and crisps.

We never had to self cater, eating out 3 times a day, every day, was extremely affordable for our family of four.

Laos also has some great bakeries, plenty of cake to be found!

Food in Luang Prabang

Pretty Cafes Luang Prabang, Laos.

On our backpackers’ budget, the fancy little cafes aren’t on the menu. They’re cute and the menus look great, but it’s just not going to happen, particularly not with 4 mouths to feed.

The night market, the lane that comes off the main street, is stuffed with interesting looking food.

Vegetarian buffets, meat on a stick, sausages, spring rolls, papaya salads, it all looks amazing and it’s all cheap.

Night Market buffet Luang Prabang Laos.

10,000 Kip ( just over a dollar) for a buffet is a great deal, we tried it, the food was OK, mostly noodles.

It’s the sort of food they tell you to avoid when you’re travelling, not freshly cooked, not hot, not covered. You won’t see the locals eating there.

Food in the night market, Luang Prabang Laos

Two of us went down with tummy bother the day after the vegetarian buffet, we didn’t try the meat, so can’t comment.

Chef was severely sick for several days, his own fault, he should know better! But after we’d recovered from that disaster we started doing better.

Street food luang prabang laos. Donuts.
Freshly made Laos donuts from a street seller in Luang Prabang. Delicious and a big hit with the kids.

The baguette stalls on the corner are another 10,000 Kip budget option and the baguettes are big enough to share.

We’ve eaten there often. It’s the food you’re supposed to avoid again, salad and cold sandwich fillings with extra added flies.

They’re pretty good and no tummy bother so far. You can get great coffee from the baguette ladies and the children love the yummy fruit shakes, loaded with condensed milk and Orios.

You can eat in at the cute little tables, or take away.

Baguettes, coffee and shakes. Luang Prabang Laos.

Noodle soup stalls come in at around 10,000 Kip, too. We’ve found our noodle stall after a bit of trial and error, we like it and we’re sticking with it.

It’s the one opposite the new monastery on the main street. The locals love this one. We thought the noodle soup was more similar to Vietnamese dishes than Thai.

Food in Luang Prabang, Laos. Noodle soup stall
Laos noodle soup from a street stall, Luang Prabang
Delicious vegetable noodle soup from “our” street stall. Thongmoun Aunt, opposite the monastery, add fresh chili, lime and herbs to taste.

There are some lovely bakeries in Luang Prabang too. If you’re craving coffee and a cake, you won’t be disappointed.

Unfortunately, we’ve had some really disappointing meals in cafes here, an omelette that came with tinned European mushrooms and a slice of processed cheese was a slap in the face after the fantastic wild oyster mushrooms we were addicted to in Vang Vieng.

We saw mounds of localy collected wild mushrooms for sale in the streets, ( have a look at The Markets of Luang Prabang, they are incredible!) yet to please European tastes, they went for the tinned variety, which was a shame.

We’ve ordered Lao style curries and had good and bad, this one was delicious. The traditional Laos sticky rice is heavenly.

Laos curry with sticky rice and beer Lao. Food in Laos

There is a cafe called Khmu on the main street, past the palace, that has some great Laos dishes at around 40,000 Kip. We recommend their larp.

Laos food Larp Luang Prabang
Larp in Luang Prabang, Laos. Highly recommended!

Authentic Indian food was a  surprise Nisha Restaurant was run by an Indian family and is just past Dara Market.It is very budget friendly and the food is delicious.

Pilgrim’s cafe was a great spot for coffee and smoothies at Rama hotel. They have a children’s play room and a collection of Guinness World Record Books to keep the kids happy. Their menu looks promising, we’ll go back and try today.

I’m starting to sound like the Lonely Planet food section, I know, sorry.

What I wanted to say was, if you’re coming to Luang Prabang, have a good hunt around, find the smaller streets behind Dara market and the look for the places the locals eat, there is great food in Luang Prabang for those of us on a tight budget in this stunning little town.

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About the author
Alyson Long
Alyson Long is a British medical scientist who jumped ship to chase dreams. A former Chief Biomedical Scientist at London's West Middlesex Hospital she started in website creation and travel writing in 2011. Alyson is a full-time blogger and travel writer, a published author, and owns several websites. World Travel Family is the biggest. A lifetime of wanderlust and over 6 years of full-time travel, plus a separate 12 month gap year, has given Alyson and the family some travel expert smarts to share with you on this world travel site. Today Alyson still travels extensively to update this site and continue her mission to visit every country, but she's often at home on her farm in Australia.

9 thoughts on “Food in Laos and Luang Prabang”

  1. Protein is a problem for me Daniel, I suffer from low blood sugar if I don’t get protein in a meal, as does one of the kids. It makes us feel very unwell indeed and is a constant battle.

  2. Protein is not the issue in a vegetarian diet…. although the meat industry spend a fortune trying to convince us otherwise…. It comes down to B vitamins and amino acids etc… protein is not a problem. My wife and I are also trying to feed a kid in Luang Prabang and you are correct that with a bit of searching you can find amazing food here…..
    D (veggie for 31 years, raising a kid the same way).

  3. Just came from Luang Prabang and this was really helpful! we skipped the 10,000 kip buffet and found our own noodle place in front of the tourism office. 🙂 happy travels!

    • Thanks Jenny, that’s just what I like to hear. Hope you enjoyed Luang Prabang. I should have mentioned “our” noodle shop, it was called Thongmoon Aunt I think, did vegetarian noodles, the one outside the tourist office ( which looked great!) was beef noodles, or pork, I think. Did they do vegetarian? I do my very best to eat vegetarian food, but sometimes I try speciality dishes and sometimes I just can’t find any other protein. I’m not fanatical about it, but I prefer to be vegetarian if I can. Glad you skipped the buffet, it was horrible!

  4. I keep noticing the food signs in your pics written in English. Is that typical or just in the touristy places?

    • Everything that’s aimed at tourists is in English Suzi. The odd place will have a bit of French and German, too. The local places are either in the local language or just don’t have a name. The only place in Asia I’ve eaten in restaurants without an English menu, ever, is China.

  5. Seems like you have hit your stride with the food outlets after trial and error! Boys look great and seem happy with their lot on the road!

  6. Love the “Eat, Love, Drink” sign on the first photo.

    I’ve also read Eat, Pray, Love and loved the adventure

    At this very moment I think of your Chef husband as I am reading of a family travelling through India and the cheeky author (knowing the title would sell well – and good on him) with the book titled “Eat, Pray, Eat”.

    He is a writer for a food column and gets to travel around the world for the sake of food research. This time the trip is organised by the wife and they also take their two children.
    They also come up against tummy bugs, road accidents, bartering like mad, dodgy this and that etc.
    I feel like I’m travelling like a sook just reading the book and your blogs.
    Looking forward to your next installment.
    Take care

    • I thought it was cool too Kym! Food has always been a big part of travel for me, lucky I married a chef. I’m getting very fed up of eating bread all the time, it doesn’t agree with me!


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