Technically, The Trans Siberian Express doesn’t exist, I’ve Googled it to check. It’s the Trans Siberian Railway or the Trans Mongolian Railway. But when I booked my tickets I booked tickets on the Trans Siberian Express, so I’m keeping that for now. We left the train in Mongolia for a few days. It was an incredible experience, an amazing country. If you are wondering where to go on a round the world trip ( RTW), seriously consider Mongolia.
We’ve already done where to go on a RTW. Part 1: Russia. We left off where we boarded the train. So now to the next bit, getting to Mongolia.
Before we left the UK we’d become aware that Mongolia was suffering from an outbreak of bubonic plague, spread by lemmings, apparently. But it’s fully curable these days so we decided to suck it up. How bad could bubonic plague be?
Life on The Trans Siberian ( Mongolian) Express ( Railway)
The cabins on the train had four berths and we were sharing with two gentlemen, a Mongolian and a guy that we established was from Minsk. That was about as far as the conversation went with Minsk guy. He seemed nice, he taught us the Belarusian word for snow, snieh, gave us some of his vodka and offered us a share of his leg of roast lamb that he’d brought along, wrapped in newspaper. It sat on the table for the whole trip. He’d get his knife out and hack a bit off when he was peckish.
Mongolian guy had a few more words of English, he played cards with James. We all got along pretty well, sharing food and smiles, but mostly not understanding each other at all. I love long train journeys, sitting, observing, watching the world go by, inside, and outside the train.
When we started this classic railway journey in Moscow we couldn’t understand why everybody had so much baggage. It was bizarre, bales and bales of random stuff tied up with string. These people weren’t just stowing it in their own cabins, they had special keys to unlock and remove panels in the train, in the ceiling, in the walls, everywhere. It wasn’t unusual for a smiling Mongolian to enter our cabin, squeezing a bale of something or other through the door and casually remove part of the roof and stuff the something up there. They were very nice, but we weren’t exactly sure what was going on and were kind of worried about the legalities. Nobody else seemed too bothered by it, so we adopted the ” smile and wave” approach.
At stations they sprung into action, racing to sell their gear to the waiting crowds of Russians, fur coats, light fittings, just about anything, dangled out of windows and doors. James, helped out, it seemed like a good thing to do.
Food on The Trans Siberian or Trans Mongolian Express
There is a dining car, it also sells beer. I didn’t eat there at all so I can’t comment. I expect they serve borscht.
We took a few supplies with us, instant noodles, tea bags and nuts. Each carriage has boiling water available from a samovar, so that was easy. We also bought food at stations. The train stops for long enough for one of you to hop off and buy some local specialties, freshly boiled eggs, home-made bread, dried fish, all sorts of things. James scored us some cheese triangles at one point, one of the global varieties, either laughing cow, slightly amused cow or sullen cow. The cow’s mood alters as you travel around the globe. Beer, too, plenty of beer and, no doubt, vodka, was available on the station platforms.
Mongolia: Ulan Bator
Mongolia was excellent, a very strange and different sort of place. I’ve said before that I think we travel to find the different. Well we found it here!
As this was a pre booked tour, a guide met us at the station and took us to a modernish hotel. We discovered that there were two other British backpackers on the train, joining us for the next few days, we hadn’t seen them on the Trans Siberian/Mongolian at all. They were nice, which was good.
A shower and a change of clothes was heaven after four nights on the train. We had one night in the town of Ulan Bator, enough time to explore, visit a fantastic Buddhist monastery complete with chanting monks, change some money and eat out at one of the many Chenghis restaurants and sample lard on toast, with Borscht.
Next morning they whisked us away for our Traditional Mongolian Ger Camp Experience
Mongolia: Traditional Mongolian Ger Camp Experience
OK, so our Mongolian Ger Camp Experience maybe wasn’t entirely traditional, it was a purpose-built tourist ger camp, but it was traditional enough for us. We were far enough away from civilization to hear the wolves at night and I’d never slept inside anything like a ger before.
Our ger was beautiful, ornately decorated and warm, thanks to the central wood burning stove. There were wooden bunks neatly arranged around the edges, with plenty of blankets. A guy came in at night to stoke the fire while we slept, temperatures outside were incredibly low ( minus 10 ish), we wore everything in our packs at once and were still absolutely freezing once we stepped out through the door.
Food ( borscht) was served in a communal dining building, there were only four of us staying, plus the Mongolian staff. We rode Mongolian ponies and practiced Mongolian wrestling with a small wiry chap, it became very competitive among the rugby playing, weight lifting boys, the Mongolian won, every time.
We walked across the steppe with our guide to find an actual, real, nomadic family in their winter camp. They gave us home-made biscuits and mare’s milk tea. I still haven’t got over that tea. In the evenings we played knuckle bones, with actual, real knuckle bones and drank the vodka we had brought with us.
After two nights in our ger camp we headed back to the station, back to our cozy train to continue our Trans Siberian, or was it Trans Mongolian, experience right through to Beijing. We didn’t get bubonic plague.