Anjuna and North Goa, How it’s Changed

Home » India » Anjuna and North Goa, How it’s Changed

This post may contain affiliate links.

Anjuna is the northernmost of the big tourist beaches of North Goa. The touristic development starts at Fort Aguada and stretches along the long sandy beach through Candolim, Calangute and Baga. Three towns that have merged into each other over the years. We’ve been visiting Anjuna and north Goa for decades, a look at how it’s changed over the years. You can decide if it’s spoiled or better now. We still love it.

Baga Beach, North Goa, still busy in the low season
Looking South at Baga Beach, stretching to Calangute and Candolim. Busy with Indian tourists in the low season.

At Baga a stream and a headland separates Anjuna from the sandy strip and gives the little town something of a separate identity.

Anjuna is, of course, famous for its Wednesday market. Anjuna flea market has been running since the hippie 60s and is still going strong. We were very pleased to see that Anjuna Market still retains much of its identity although it is bigger than ever, stretching up the road that used to be a dirt track. It’s grown so much that it now has a makeshift carpark in what was padi field. Another post about Anjuna Market is coming soon.

Anjuna Beach, North Goa 2015
Anjuna beach, from the cliffs at the north end. We still love it!

Along the beach there are more beach shacks, restaurants and bars, but there still aren’t the shore to shore beach chairs of it’s 3 bigger cousins to the south. The old town of Anjuna appears much as it was 20 years ago, I know because that was when I first visited.

The Portuguese style houses and narrow lanes still stand, but along the main roads you’ll find more of everything. More makeshift stalls selling T Shirt, jewellery and pants, cafes and guest houses .

The dirt roads have gone, they’re newly sealed, there is a small Dominoes pizza place and a huge club now stands on the clifftop to the northern side. You won’t find women drying cow pats on sunny walls for their cooking fires as you once did, but the cows and goats remain.

Market stalls Anjuna Beach Goa
The clifftop walk from the beach to Anjuna town is now a rabbit warren of stalls, guest houses and restaurants.

It was on the clifftops that we saw the biggest changes. Where we used to sit on red dirt under palm trees for a cold Kingfisher at sundown, rows of restaurants and stalls have gone up. Walkways have formed between simple buildings and stalls. It’s a rabbit warren up there now.

But for us Anjuna still has charm. We enjoy this scene, we’re not looking for deserted beaches and the off-the-beate- track experience ( not that such a thing really exists). We enjoy life and energy, choices in where we eat, free wifi, easy access. Heck we even like trance music. If you like your beaches quieter you need to be further north or far to the south ( avoid Colva Beach).

We do not take drugs, we never have and we do not go to the parties, we’re in bed by then. In Anjuna you won’t spend much of your day free from the smell of marijuana smoke, but the vendors were OK. They smiled, said hi, asked us discretely if we wanted hashish and when I said “No, not with children.” They never asked again. I like that, I hate being badgered to buy drugs as we were in Luang Prabang.

The vendors of more legal tourist merchandise were far more persistent. There is no way we could walk past a stall without being invited to look.

“Looking is free!”

“Yes madam, everything 100Rps.”

“How much you pay those pants? You want more colours, best price!”

We love it. Some people find it intrusive or annoying, we love the exchange. After a few days you get to know the women a little, you start to get smiles and hellos, but they still invite you to buy. The older women in traditional Karnataka costume are still there, still looking splendid.

Morjim Beach North Goa
Morjim beach, the first beach to the north of Chapora River, was still fairly quiet.

North of Anjuna you’ll see big changes too. Big and Little Vagator were almost unrecognisable for less pleasant trashy cliff-top development. The little ferry over the Chapora River has long gone, in its place is a modern bridge and main road, the dirt tracks and cow carts on that side of the river have gone too. Riding around on bikes we could still find the villages, water buffalo and waving children, but we had to look a little harder.

Vagator Beach North Goa.
Big Vagator Beach, looking north to Chapora Fort

We enjoyed our time in Anjuna very much, ( another post to come), the changes and development haven’t spoiled it , we think. We were there in the quiet season, April, the hot time ( it wasn’t too hot). There were few other tourists around, a handful of Russians, one or two backpackers, a very few Indians. ( the 3 southern beaches were very busy with Indian tourists, this is Indian summer holiday time).  In the busy season I guess the experience would be completely different. We caught what was possibly the last Wednesday market of the year, the vendors’ licenses run to May, they were all ready to pack up and return to Karnataka and Kashmir for the wet season.

We stayed at Poonam Hotel Resort in Anjuna  and would recommend it for its very low price, great pool, good location and pretty garden. Click through to check prices. We received no incentive from them. Anjuna is anotheer of our favourite places along with Fort Kochi, Rajasthan, Varanassi, so many! If you’d like more insight into travel in India, visit our India Travel Blog page.

If you'd like to hire a car during your stay, use this car rental comparison tool to find the best deal!

We also suggest you take a look at this company to get a quote for all kinds of the more tricky adventure or extended travel insurance.

Try Stayz / VRBO for an alternative way to find rentals on homes/apartments/condos in any country!

About the author
Alyson Long
Alyson Long is a British medical scientist who jumped ship to chase dreams. A former Chief Biomedical Scientist at London's West Middlesex Hospital she started in website creation and travel writing in 2011. Alyson is a full-time blogger and travel writer, a published author, and owns several websites. World Travel Family is the biggest. A lifetime of wanderlust and over 6 years of full-time travel, plus a separate 12 month gap year, has given Alyson and the family some travel expert smarts to share with you on this world travel site. Today Alyson still travels extensively to update this site and continue her mission to visit every country, but she's often at home on her farm in Australia.

5 thoughts on “Anjuna and North Goa, How it’s Changed”

  1. Hey, Alyson! Thank you for sharing your lovely experience of Anjuna Beach of North Goa. I have heard about this beach a lot and I wish to visit there soon. From your blog, I have gathered information about the best places to enjoy nightlife and parties. I will definitely partake in lots of water sport activities with family and friends to enjoy the Goa trip at its best.

  2. Wow!!! Such a nice post, it is very useful for Goa visitors. Keep updating

  3. Hey, Alyson & family! Thanks for sharing your lovely experience through this blogpost. I didn’t know Goa was safe for having a family vacation. I always thought it was a party and rave sort of place. Now that I have heard about this from you, I think I’ll plan a trip there with my family as well.

  4. Considering your company, it’s great that the pushers of legal merchandise were most persistent. Being harassed to buy substances while with your children would not make for the best vacation.


Leave a comment